Frequently asked questions
Q1. Why can I only upload 150kb in the order form.
A1. Because of server constraints using the mailform system.
Q2. What happens if I upload a large image.
A2. Our Web Space providers server system will in all probability delete the entire form and image.
Q3. I do not know how to reduce the file size of my image.
A3. Fill the order form in and then send the picture attached to a separate email or contact our web designer for advice.
Q4. How many photos do you need?
A4. Please send me several photos, if you can. Indicate which one is the primary picture that you want me to draw from, and then let me know which features on the secondary photos you want to draw to my attention. For example, ‘Picture 3 shows the mouth better than the primary photo’. I need to know which photo is most true in colour, so that I can get the best match. Finally, I must have a good photo showing the eyes.
Q5.The photos are not very clear/accurate?
A6. With the best will in the world, if the photo does not show a true likeness of your pet the pastel will not do so either, and you will be disappointed. I can only draw what you send me and the whole point of my service is that you send me a photo that portrays your pet the way you want it drawn and I do not try to alter or improve it as I see fit. I must remain true to the images sent to me or I will disappoint everyone.
Q7. In my favourite photo the ears/eyes/mouth look funny?
A7. Ensure that your secondary photos show those features the way you like them, and make it clear to me what you want. Although I say above that I can’t guess at features, if I can see other pictures I can usually combine features. Provided I have several pictures I will show the ears, eyes and mane etc at their best.
Q8. What about digital photos?
A8. The digital camera is a godsend to animal photographers. You can keep snapping, at no cost, and usually you will get a few good pictures. Please use the highest possible definition setting and send me the photos as JPG files.
Q9. Close up or whole animal?
A9. My specialism is the ‘head and shoulders’ portrait so the more the head fills the screen the better for me, and the end result. I love to show detail. That’s what makes it your pet, and not some standard image from a book.
Q10. I can’t get a good photo?
A10. Always take extra close-ups of the face for detail. You might be able to capture the features bit-by-bit. Fill the viewfinder to get the best detail. Some extreme zooms are electronic and sacrifice quality. Take the photographs at your pet's level. Don’t look up a horse’s face, nor down onto a dog or cat. Smaller pets can be put on a chair or table.
A three-quarters view is usually better than a side view. Full on facial views can be very appealing if your pet tilts his face or raises an eyebrow. You should select the pose that best portrays your pet. Horses tend to photograph badly in the evening after a hard day’s grazing! They are dopey and full of grass, their heads are down and their eyes half-closed. Dogs become most attentive and quizzical when the owner disappears from view. It sometimes takes three people: the photographer, a person to hold the pet, and another to walk around behind the photographer to distract the pet and create movement and different views. Modern cameras are too clever by half. A light background makes the pet dark and vice versa. A darker, distant, background is best. If you can find ‘exposure lock’ and set it to the pet’s coat it works wonders.
Try not to use flash as it drains the colour. Strong sunlight does the same, and evening sunlight makes your pet look more orange. That said, the detail is most important; the colour can be taken from a different photo.
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